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TOPIC: 2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Apr 2017 16:21 #26

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I would use epoxy. The most important reason is curing time. Epoxy will set up slower, and give you more time to work. It's never as easy to get it setup right working cramped up in the engine room. As well you'll need a couple of braces to pull it all together and that will take time as well. Epoxy also bonds better to poly and wood than poly does to itself or wood. Also it has a less than 3% water permeation rate, compared to polys 7-10%

Are you replacing the whole transom or just the keyhole area? If just the keyhole, I would cut the inner plywood layer back some to interleave the joints. Other wise you will have only the shear strength of the glass layer, over the keyhole repair.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 28 Apr 2017 15:37 #27

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Good morning Sketch Polyester resin works well but is not as good for 2nddary bonding my choice is vinelester since is bonding is great, Epoxy is of course at the top of the bonding and strength list, but cost is up there. By the way Sceeter3 will be coming by on his trip to Prince Rupert.

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 05:36 #28

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I'm about 95% done the grinding and cleanup work now. I'm going to make the transom one piece from outer stringer to outer stringer. My fibreglass is 3/8 thick so I will probably use 2 pieces of 3/4 laminated and make up the rest with fibreglass to get 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 thickness Merc recommends.

Reading about the mess that the grinding makes does not prepare you for actually how big of mess it really is! Wow! Big job I never want to do again! But now the worst it over and the fun part begins!

I'm going to use epoxy now after seeing how bad the joints and seams were glassed together from factory. I need epoxy to fill a lot of gaps and air pockets I opened up when grinding/ sanding. Need a good bond.

I'm jealous skeeter3! We would love to be planning a trip but right now I don't know when I will have the doghouse back in one piece! Have a great summer on your boat!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 06:35 #29

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sketch96 wrote: I'm going to use epoxy now after seeing how bad the joints and seams were glassed together from factory. I need epoxy to fill a lot of gaps and air pockets I opened up when grinding / sanding. Need a good bond.

Ah the days of grinding into the factory glasswork, two words: lint roller ;)

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 14:39 #30

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One trick to set up when grinding 1st plastic of the area have tunnel to the outside, 2nd set up a fan to suck out the dust wile grinding, 3rd shop vac. sucking wile you are grinding, Tyvek suit with hood and respirator and get is all done when it is cool if possible. :woohoo:

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 14:59 #31

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I had my shop vac setup and running the whole time. Works ok until it plugs the filter. I will be doing cleanup today. Hoping I got everything and I can progress to making a template. I bought 2 sheets of 3/4" auroaco plywood. Ready to start rebuilding!

I was suprised to see that the transom fibreglass was only 3/8 thick. I thought they were all min 1/2" for boats this size.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 22:41 #32

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We wish.

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 30 Apr 2017 18:22 #33

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Been there as well :angry: Poor workmanship
When I rebuild my transom I decided to improve it to prevent water from seeping into the plywood if the transom seal should start leaking, I made the holes a lot bigger and filled them with Epoxy and a robber hose to make the drilling easier.
I wish you good luck :P



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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 14:15 #34

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Have the first layer pieces cut and fitted now. Have replaced all the wood under the fuel tank area also. Got the fuel tank back last Friday but they did a terrible job building it so it went back for them to try building a new one. Progressing slowly but surely.

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Doug
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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 15:31 #35

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Good morning sketch, keep digging you will win, or New Cutwater for 300,000.+++ , was your tank so bad that you needed a new one ?

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 18:22 #36

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Yes it was just about ready to start leaking. If you look back at the first thread in this topic I posted pics of the bottom of the tank. Multiple spots were corroded badly under the little 1/8" thick rubber "straps" bayliner used around the tank. I'm just looking for a suitable material to use now to glue to the tank to replace them.

The wood bed the tank sits on was rotted out completely. I have fixed and sealed around all limber holes under the tank area now so the water will be able to drain properly. They were all blocked off with fibreglass from the chopper gun used at the factory. The main drain from the engine compartment to under the tank was the only one open but it was angled upwards under the tank about 1/2". Water could run in but never get out again.

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 19 May 2017 17:38 #37

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Looks like Arouco ply. If so good choice. I have used it extensively in my rebuild. Nothing short of $100 + marine ply looked or was anywhere near as good. Even the $80 MDO i used for my transom had more voids.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 01:01 #38

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Yes it is arauco plywood. Nice stuff almost no voids. Price was right!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 06:24 #39

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A lesson from the wooden boat guys. Never use stainless steel where it can't get air! It doesn't take much bare stainless to meet the need, but using stainless fasteners then encapsulating the assembly will rot the fasteners in no time flat. Use silicon bronze then forget about them. I got the lecture three times (I'm a slow learner), the first time was talking to a guy who did a first class restoration on a 50' 1962 Chris Craft that was shown at the Seattle Worlds Fair. The second was from a guy that restored, as in cut the planks off the frames, a 1926 Lake Union Dream Boat, the thir was a shipwright refastening my brothers 1942 Chris Craft. Every time the message was the same. If the fastener is getting air, stainless is their first choice. If the fastener is covered with anything, resins, epoxy, plugs, whatever, stainless is the worst choice. It's counterintuitive, but if the "gray beards" are that strongly opinionated, I'm going to do as they say.
It's just my experience, take it for what it's worth. Probably not something I'd cut the new installation up to correct as most of the strength is in the fiberglass, but if you haven't gotten that far yet, something to consider.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 19:34 #40

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Hi sketch I recommend installing a lay down bilge pump under the tank, look at my tank install, at times the boats we own sit bow down. Looks like your making progress, keep it up.:cheer:

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 21 May 2017 01:26 #41

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That is a good idea fritzman. If my boat was moored I would be doing that for sure. I trailer my boat and it won't ever be moored. As soon as it's out of the water the drain plug comes out for the 8 hour trip home. Should be no issues with getting all the water to drain out with all the hills.

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Doug
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