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TOPIC: 2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 27 Apr 2017 16:21 #26

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I would use epoxy. The most important reason is curing time. Epoxy will set up slower, and give you more time to work. It's never as easy to get it setup right working cramped up in the engine room. As well you'll need a couple of braces to pull it all together and that will take time as well. Epoxy also bonds better to poly and wood than poly does to itself or wood. Also it has a less than 3% water permeation rate, compared to polys 7-10%

Are you replacing the whole transom or just the keyhole area? If just the keyhole, I would cut the inner plywood layer back some to interleave the joints. Other wise you will have only the shear strength of the glass layer, over the keyhole repair.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 28 Apr 2017 15:37 #27

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Good morning Sketch Polyester resin works well but is not as good for 2nddary bonding my choice is vinelester since is bonding is great, Epoxy is of course at the top of the bonding and strength list, but cost is up there. By the way Sceeter3 will be coming by on his trip to Prince Rupert.

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 05:36 #28

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I'm about 95% done the grinding and cleanup work now. I'm going to make the transom one piece from outer stringer to outer stringer. My fibreglass is 3/8 thick so I will probably use 2 pieces of 3/4 laminated and make up the rest with fibreglass to get 2 1/8 - 2 1/4 thickness Merc recommends.

Reading about the mess that the grinding makes does not prepare you for actually how big of mess it really is! Wow! Big job I never want to do again! But now the worst it over and the fun part begins!

I'm going to use epoxy now after seeing how bad the joints and seams were glassed together from factory. I need epoxy to fill a lot of gaps and air pockets I opened up when grinding/ sanding. Need a good bond.

I'm jealous skeeter3! We would love to be planning a trip but right now I don't know when I will have the doghouse back in one piece! Have a great summer on your boat!

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Doug
1995 7.4l 2859 Bravo ll
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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 06:35 #29

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sketch96 wrote: I'm going to use epoxy now after seeing how bad the joints and seams were glassed together from factory. I need epoxy to fill a lot of gaps and air pockets I opened up when grinding / sanding. Need a good bond.

Ah the days of grinding into the factory glasswork, two words: lint roller ;)

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 14:39 #30

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One trick to set up when grinding 1st plastic of the area have tunnel to the outside, 2nd set up a fan to suck out the dust wile grinding, 3rd shop vac. sucking wile you are grinding, Tyvek suit with hood and respirator and get is all done when it is cool if possible. :woohoo:

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 14:59 #31

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I had my shop vac setup and running the whole time. Works ok until it plugs the filter. I will be doing cleanup today. Hoping I got everything and I can progress to making a template. I bought 2 sheets of 3/4" auroaco plywood. Ready to start rebuilding!

I was suprised to see that the transom fibreglass was only 3/8 thick. I thought they were all min 1/2" for boats this size.

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Doug
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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 29 Apr 2017 22:41 #32

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We wish.

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 30 Apr 2017 18:22 #33

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Been there as well :angry: Poor workmanship
When I rebuild my transom I decided to improve it to prevent water from seeping into the plywood if the transom seal should start leaking, I made the holes a lot bigger and filled them with Epoxy and a robber hose to make the drilling easier.
I wish you good luck :P



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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 14:15 #34

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Have the first layer pieces cut and fitted now. Have replaced all the wood under the fuel tank area also. Got the fuel tank back last Friday but they did a terrible job building it so it went back for them to try building a new one. Progressing slowly but surely.

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Doug
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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 15:31 #35

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Good morning sketch, keep digging you will win, or New Cutwater for 300,000.+++ , was your tank so bad that you needed a new one ?

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 18 May 2017 18:22 #36

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Yes it was just about ready to start leaking. If you look back at the first thread in this topic I posted pics of the bottom of the tank. Multiple spots were corroded badly under the little 1/8" thick rubber "straps" bayliner used around the tank. I'm just looking for a suitable material to use now to glue to the tank to replace them.

The wood bed the tank sits on was rotted out completely. I have fixed and sealed around all limber holes under the tank area now so the water will be able to drain properly. They were all blocked off with fibreglass from the chopper gun used at the factory. The main drain from the engine compartment to under the tank was the only one open but it was angled upwards under the tank about 1/2". Water could run in but never get out again.

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Doug
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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 19 May 2017 17:38 #37

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Looks like Arouco ply. If so good choice. I have used it extensively in my rebuild. Nothing short of $100 + marine ply looked or was anywhere near as good. Even the $80 MDO i used for my transom had more voids.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 01:01 #38

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Yes it is arauco plywood. Nice stuff almost no voids. Price was right!

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Doug
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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 06:24 #39

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A lesson from the wooden boat guys. Never use stainless steel where it can't get air! It doesn't take much bare stainless to meet the need, but using stainless fasteners then encapsulating the assembly will rot the fasteners in no time flat. Use silicon bronze then forget about them. I got the lecture three times (I'm a slow learner), the first time was talking to a guy who did a first class restoration on a 50' 1962 Chris Craft that was shown at the Seattle Worlds Fair. The second was from a guy that restored, as in cut the planks off the frames, a 1926 Lake Union Dream Boat, the thir was a shipwright refastening my brothers 1942 Chris Craft. Every time the message was the same. If the fastener is getting air, stainless is their first choice. If the fastener is covered with anything, resins, epoxy, plugs, whatever, stainless is the worst choice. It's counterintuitive, but if the "gray beards" are that strongly opinionated, I'm going to do as they say.
It's just my experience, take it for what it's worth. Probably not something I'd cut the new installation up to correct as most of the strength is in the fiberglass, but if you haven't gotten that far yet, something to consider.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 20 May 2017 19:34 #40

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Hi sketch I recommend installing a lay down bilge pump under the tank, look at my tank install, at times the boats we own sit bow down. Looks like your making progress, keep it up.:cheer:

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 21 May 2017 01:26 #41

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That is a good idea fritzman. If my boat was moored I would be doing that for sure. I trailer my boat and it won't ever be moored. As soon as it's out of the water the drain plug comes out for the 8 hour trip home. Should be no issues with getting all the water to drain out with all the hills.

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 30 May 2017 19:39 #42

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Been Progressing with the work as time allows. Have the first layer of the transom glued in. No voids anywhere now. Got the stringers in yesterday. Everything is bedded down to the hull now. Use west system six/one in a caulking gun to get it underneath the main stringer that I did not remove then attached the inner stringer with screws and epoxy. Good and solid now.

Still waiting on the the gas tank so I can finish under there and put in the aft bulkhead. So far it looks like it will be much better than factory with no chance of water ingress anymore.

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Last Edit: by sketch96.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 30 May 2017 22:09 #43

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Looks great sketch. Not that you need to, but I removed the bilge pump pad completely mostly because it had mush for a core. It gives me better access under the engine and allowed more space for a larger bilge pump. Your results may vary ;)

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 03:03 #44

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I've been looking at it and thinking about removing it also. Just replace it with a single lower profile pad. this one doesn't seem to bad for rot but I would like to put in a 2000 gph rule pump and not sure if it would clear the motor as is. I am also adding a low profile 1100gph whale pump right at the back near the garboard drain.

Looks like I may have some more grinding to do now!

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 03:39 #45

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sketch96 wrote: I've been looking at it and thinking about removing it also. Just replace it with a single lower profile pad. this one doesn't seem to bad for rot but I would like to put in a 2000 gph rule pump and not sure if it would clear the motor as is. I am also adding a low profile 1100gph whale pump right at the back near the garboard drain.

Looks like I may have some more grinding to do now!

Been thinking the same thing, my 1500 GPH under the forward portion of the oil pan leaves quite a bit of water in the bilge. Course it was water that I put there to keep my ducer submerged :silly: probably gonna mount that thing permanently one day :lol:

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Dave
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www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 13:54 #46

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Did you have to remove the old bilge pump pad to fit the 1500 pump? I see they are 6" tall. I never actually measured the clearance before removing the motor. The old pump was a Johnson but had no markings left on it to identify the size. It was under 750gph as the outlet was 3/4". Too small as far as I'm concerned. I replaced the 500gph Johnson pump in the forward compartment with a 1000gph Johnson with Ultima switch.

What transducer are you using?

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Doug
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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 14:58 #47

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Looks like a fantastic job better than OEM. let me see if I can find a picture of the pump and mount under my Eng. It worked, don't like this new system.

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Old Glue

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 15:29 #48

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My 1500 wouldn't fit with the pad in place, it's curently mounted just forward of the deep portion of the oil pan, that's as far aft as I could get it. It's fairly easy to service because I've mounted it on a piece of aluminum flat bar that I bent at angles and bolts into the top of the starboard stringer just aft of the motor mount.

I need to do the low profile type further aft as Fritz has shown in his photo, that'll keep the water level really low if it ever started to leak.
My ducer is a transom mount type that came with my dragonfly 7pro (about 10"long x 1" dia) I'm still testing spots in the engine bay for it because I don't want it screwed to the exterior of the transom, hence the water in the bilge to keep it submerged. It works great at low speed but as soon as the bow comes up the water goes aft and I loose depth readings. Time to do the water bag test so I can verify The current spot at speed.

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Dave
Edmonds, WA
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'93 2556 5.7 Bravo II 2.0:1 18 1/4x19 P
.030 over-Vortec top end-part closed cooled
***The rebuild of my 2556***
www.baylinerownersclub.org/index.php/for...ansom-repair-my-2556
Last Edit: by builderdude.

2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 15:41 #49

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I like what Fritz did...Lopro or Supersub

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2859 transom/stringer and gas tank project 31 May 2017 21:49 #50

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The aluminum mount is what I did in my 2359 trophy. Worked great. I will do the same as Fritz at the back with the whale pump. Looks like the pad has to come out for the big pump or I may just buy a 2nd 1100gph whale and mount that right beside the pad. 2200gph capacity in the rear compartment and 1000 in the front compartment should be lots.

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Doug
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