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TOPIC: 3888 Start up check and more!

3888 Start up check and more! 16 Jul 2017 16:09 #1

  • Dave GT
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Dear all my name is Dave, I'm new to BOC and enjoying it already. If all goes to plan I shall be the owner of a 3888 circa 1990 within the next 4 weeks. I have a background in engineering and hoping I don't have to call on it too much! That said although cosmetically she looks wonderful, her engines haven't been run for at least 2 years and I'm somewhat concerned about the current owner trying to start her up without due diligence. Please could you advise on 1. Engine check procedures? I did serve my time on industrial diesels so I know my way around them albeit not marine. 2. Checks I need to do everywhere else? I realise these are loaded questions but any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Many thanks ,
Dave

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3888 Start up check and more! 16 Jul 2017 17:26 #2

  • higgins_jr
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Dave, firstly welcome aboard. Re your query, it would help if you advised what engines she has and your location. Hino or Cummins (assuming its diesel)??

Firstly, I'd be checking oil levels and running your finger on the underside of the valve cover filler (if there is one) to check for cream (water in oil). Also general evidence of leaks around raw water pumps and hoses. Other than ensuring fuel valves are open and fuel filter bowls clear, it's basically try to start it and see. Try one at a time. Have someone check the engine exhaust to see if there is water coming thru. If not shut it down. If it doesn't fire after 3-4 cranking attempts, it then a trouble shooting exercise.

If you are buying, have you had her lifted/cleaned to check the hull etc? Depending on growth, it would be important to determine your sea cock thru hulls are clear and any sea trial needs to be on a clean bum. There are far more qualified folks to comment on specifics for each engine brands and you should have a suitably qualified marine mechanic check it out for you.

Hope this assists. Cheers

PS. I'll move your post to Motor Yachts where it'll get more visibility
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John H
Brisbane QLD Aust
"Harbor-nating"

2000 - 4788/Cummins 370's

3888 Start up check and more! 16 Jul 2017 20:53 #3

  • Jim Gandee
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Dave,
Welcome aboard! I'm assuming these are Hino 4 CYL turbocharged diesels? First I'd try to locate literature from Hino on how to proceed. Barring that info not being available I'd remove the injectors. First, to have them inspected and tested for correct operation. While the injectors are out I'd introduce some lubricant into each cylinder. Some like Marvel Mystery Oil some just say diesel, choose your own weapon. Change the engine oil and filters. Rotate the engine by hand through several rotations to coat the CYL walls with oil then spin the engines with the starter to build oil pressure. It obviously will not start without injectors at this point. The goal is to lubricate the cam and followers etc. Also check the turbos spin freely. They may require lubrication but when you build the engine oil pressure this should also pump fresh oil to the turbos. Next is the raw water impellers. I'd replace them with new and lube them with Dow Corning DC 4 so they don't spin dry. Ascertain the through hulls are open and external strainers are not restricted with growth. Reinstall the injectors and light it off. Others may have better advice. YMMV.
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Jim Gandee
1989 3888
Hino 175's
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3888 Start up check and more! 17 Jul 2017 06:08 #4

  • Pcpete
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Flyer, I'm pretty sure he's going to have either the 175's or the boosted version being it's a 3888.
Dave, the advice Flyer gave is spot on if you are going to try and do it yourself. If not, be sure you are there when anybody touches your engines. The basic engine from Hino has been used all over the world to run pumps and generators with the only downtime being for maintenance. There are some interesting features that you need to be aware of. One is on the starboard side of the engine above the oil filter canister is a "slinger" used to separate heavy solids form the oil by slinging the oil onto the inside of a canister. It pops off easily and needs to be wiped out and may require some solvent to get clean. Another is the "manicooler" it's aluminum with a copper bundle for the raw water to pass through. The trick there is twofold. The bundle is suspended from the manicooler by some big heavy O-rings at each end and have to be tested to confirm they are electricly separate. Next Earl, the Baylinerguru, suggests using the red Cummins approved coolant. This addresses some of the issues involving large amounts of aluminum in a mixed metal cooling system.
Where are you and your boat located? One of us may be very nearby and able to share some time with you.
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P/C Pete
Edmonds Yacht Club (Commodore 1993)
1988 3818 "GLAUBEN"
1980 Encounter Sunbridge "Misty Blue" (Sold)
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1972 Chevrolet Nova Frame off Resto-mod in the garage
Boating on the Salish Sea since 1948

3888 Start up check and more! 17 Jul 2017 11:04 #5

  • smitty477
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In 1990 it could have the 210 4 cyl Hino's in the boat- please post a picture of the engines and someone here can identify them for you.
I like Jim's list above for an engine that has sat for close to 3 seasons.
What are your plans for the old fuel in the tanks?
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Northport NY
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