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TOPIC: Automatic Bilge, 2015 185

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 20 Apr 2016 20:38 #1

  • t2oconnor
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I have a 2015 185; Does anyone know if that comes standard with an automatic bilge pump ?

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2015 Bayliner 185 Flight Series
4.3L TKS Alpha One

Mocksville NC

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 20 Apr 2016 21:02 #2

  • RobMick
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The owners manual says that it is.....however, I would pour some water in the bilge, with the key out of the ignition, the battery key turned off and see if it kicks on.....my 2012 185 says that it is automatic and hooked up directly to the battery, however this is not the case. Also another 2015 185 owner has the same issue as I do....if it is truly automatic, then it should run whenever there is enough water present for the float to pick it up and the pump to start.....

I will be interested to hear what yours is/does...

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Hell, Michigan (yes we really live in a city named "Hell" in Michigan)
2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
1985 Harris Flotebote Classic 240
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1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 21 Apr 2016 10:25 #3

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Thanks Rob; I'll test this weekend and let you know.

Tim

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2015 Bayliner 185 Flight Series
4.3L TKS Alpha One

Mocksville NC

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 13:57 #4

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No auto-bilge Rob; So now starts my adventure of adding a float switch and/or replacing the unit.
Dealer also confirmed via email when I asked last week. Wish I had thought to ask or was informed prior to pickup. I just didn't think manual pumps were even installed any more.

Regards, Tim

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2015 Bayliner 185 Flight Series
4.3L TKS Alpha One

Mocksville NC

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 15:05 #5

  • Waterdowg
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My 215 did not have an auto bilge either. Last week I installed an Attwood float switch. It was really east to wire. One wire went to the battery the other I tapped into the brown wire on the pump. So I still have the manual switch on the dash an now the float works off the battery. The switch was $20 from Walmart. This is the one i used. www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Float-Switch
To mount the switch I used a small piece a of Aluminum L . Instead of drilling into the Hull I attache the switch to the aluminum bracket and screwed to to the wood panel in the bilge

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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 15:18 #6

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Will this work even with the battery key turned to off or removed?
Picture of your mounting plate and install would be helpful..
Thanks,

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Hell, Michigan (yes we really live in a city named "Hell" in Michigan)
2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
1985 Harris Flotebote Classic 240
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 15:31 #7

  • Waterdowg
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Yes it does work with the red battery switch off. I attached the wire from the float switch to the battery side of the switch. I have tested it and it works great. I will snap some pictures tomorrow when I'm home.
Attached is quick drawing of what I did. I will post real picture tomorrow.

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2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
Evinrude 88 Special

1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
1992 Johnson 40HP.
Last Edit: by Waterdowg.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 17:45 #8

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Great thanks in Advance

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Hell, Michigan (yes we really live in a city named "Hell" in Michigan)
2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
1985 Harris Flotebote Classic 240
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 20:04 #9

  • oakplank
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Waterdowg wrote: My 215 did not have an auto bilge either. Last week I installed an Attwood float switch. It was really east to wire. One wire went to the battery the other I tapped into the brown wire on the pump. So I still have the manual switch on the dash an now the float works off the battery. The switch was $20 from Walmart. This is the one i used. www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Float-Switch
To mount the switch I used a small piece a of Aluminum L . Instead of drilling into the Hull I attache the switch to the aluminum bracket and screwed to to the wood panel in the bilge


Will there be an electrical issue if you accidentally turn on the pump at the helm at the same time that the automatic float switch turns on and also sends current to the pump? Would that not send double the voltage to the pump and fry it? It sounds like you would be sending 24 volts instead of 12 to the pump. I'm not an electrician, so maybe I just worry too much.
Maybe a BOC electrician can reassure me that it all works out perfectly as designed.

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Parry Sound, Ontario Canada
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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 20:31 #10

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Should have an in-line fuse I think that would hopefully help with that.

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2015 Bayliner 185 Flight Series
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Mocksville NC

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 26 Apr 2016 22:19 #11

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I have a 2015 185..... No auto bilge.... I'm putting one in with a separate hose to a new thru-hull... Leaving the switched OEM pump alone as backup

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Orange County, NY....Boating mostly on the Hudson River
Just started boating last summer (2015), so I'm a newbie really

2015 Bayliner 185 w/4.3L MPI (the Jeannie Rose)
1988 SunRunner 195B Bowrider w/3.0
2009 Harley Road King

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 01:23 #12

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oakplank wrote:

Waterdowg wrote: My 215 did not have an auto bilge either. Last week I installed an Attwood float switch. It was really east to wire. One wire went to the battery the other I tapped into the brown wire on the pump. So I still have the manual switch on the dash an now the float works off the battery. The switch was $20 from Walmart. This is the one i used. www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Float-Switch
To mount the switch I used a small piece a of Aluminum L . Instead of drilling into the Hull I attache the switch to the aluminum bracket and screwed to to the wood panel in the bilge


Will there be an electrical issue if you accidentally turn on the pump at the helm at the same time that the automatic float switch turns on and also sends current to the pump? Would that not send double the voltage to the pump and fry it? It sounds like you would be sending 24 volts instead of 12 to the pump. I'm not an electrician, so maybe I just worry too much.
Maybe a BOC electrician can reassure me that it all works out perfectly as designed.



I really don't know if there would be an issue. I wired it following Attwoods instructions.

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2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
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1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
Evinrude 88 Special

1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
1992 Johnson 40HP.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 11:10 #13

  • David1975
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Basically you have 1 power source (12v battery) and put an an inline switch, this will be fine.

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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 11:17 #14

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But when the engine is on, wouldn't there now be two power sources, each supplying 12 volts? Should the unit kick on while engine is running from the float switch and someone flips the dash switch there would be 24v going to the unit. Yes it could be fused, but I would think as the bilge is filling wouldn't be a great time to change the fuse?

Disclaimer - Everything I wrote is speculation, I'm not a marine electrician, play one on TV, or stay at Holiday Inn last night

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Orange County, NY....Boating mostly on the Hudson River
Just started boating last summer (2015), so I'm a newbie really

2015 Bayliner 185 w/4.3L MPI (the Jeannie Rose)
1988 SunRunner 195B Bowrider w/3.0
2009 Harley Road King

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 11:22 #15

  • Amadaies
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To get 24V to the pump you need it wired wrong to 2 batteries :whistle:

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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 12:03 #16

  • Waterdowg
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This is how I wired it,

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2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
Mercruiser 4.3 220 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
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1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
Evinrude 88 Special

1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
1992 Johnson 40HP.
Last Edit: by Waterdowg.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 27 Apr 2016 12:05 #17

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Duh…I just realized I’m wrong…the power going to the pump either by float switch or dash switch would still be getting power from the battery, not the alternator….

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Orange County, NY....Boating mostly on the Hudson River
Just started boating last summer (2015), so I'm a newbie really

2015 Bayliner 185 w/4.3L MPI (the Jeannie Rose)
1988 SunRunner 195B Bowrider w/3.0
2009 Harley Road King

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 29 Apr 2016 16:53 #18

  • Whiskey31
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Yesterday I installed a new float switch that did not come with the boat and replaced the OEM 500GPH pump with a 750GPH

I wired the power to the switch from the battery direct and tied the existing power line from the dash switch to the power going to the pump after the float switch. So with battery switch off or on, the pump works by the float switch. When the battery switch is on the pump can be operated manually by the dash switch.

Later on at some point I'll add another auto pump for redundancy, but for now this'll suffice.

I mounted the switch on an angle bracket an attached it to the plywood wall, to keep it off the floor and a little above the pump intake.

It was a pain in the ass getting the old pump base in and a new one in under the damn engine...but I did it...it was hard, but I took a shot whiskey, cursed a lot, lit up a cigar and it worked.

I tested it all with a hose filling the bilge and it works great.

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Orange County, NY....Boating mostly on the Hudson River
Just started boating last summer (2015), so I'm a newbie really

2015 Bayliner 185 w/4.3L MPI (the Jeannie Rose)
1988 SunRunner 195B Bowrider w/3.0
2009 Harley Road King
Last Edit: by Whiskey31. Reason: typo

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 29 Apr 2016 16:58 #19

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Nice work. Was that the original location of the pump?

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2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
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2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
Evinrude 88 Special

1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
1992 Johnson 40HP.
Last Edit: by Waterdowg.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 29 Apr 2016 18:01 #20

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yes the original pump was under the engine on a raised area for it. Once I got the screws out of the original base I drilled three new holes in the new base to match rather then drill new holes in the bilge

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Orange County, NY....Boating mostly on the Hudson River
Just started boating last summer (2015), so I'm a newbie really

2015 Bayliner 185 w/4.3L MPI (the Jeannie Rose)
1988 SunRunner 195B Bowrider w/3.0
2009 Harley Road King

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 29 Apr 2016 18:30 #21

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Nice. I wish mine was under the engine. Mine sits right were you placed your float switch. My guess is that there will need to be about 10 gallons of water in the bilge before the pump kicks in. Then when it turns off there is still 5 gallons of water left in the bilge when I pull the drain plug.

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2016 Bayliner 215 Deck Boat
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2003 SeaRay 176 SRX Bowrider
Mercruiser 3.0 135 HP Alpha 1 Gen II

1988 Sunbird 170 Bowrider
Evinrude 88 Special

1970 Salem Skiff 13.5 foot
1992 Johnson 40HP.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 01 May 2016 16:28 #22

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Waterdowg wrote: This is how I wired it,



The Attwood float switch schematic is incorrect.... or at minimum, is not of the best design!

a few pointers when installing a Bilge Pump float switch:

DO NOT use a Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump switch! :evil: I will explain if need be!

As long as you DO NOT have a Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump helm switch, leave the On/Off helm switch alone.

Make sure that the float switch is mounted at a higher elevation than the pump's lowest draw-down ability! (this is very important!)

Bring the float switch power from an "Un-Interrupted" power source..... I.E., a direct connection to either #1 or #2 terminal of your MBSS.
In other words.... no direct battery connection!

The float switch (when called upon) will now power the exact same bilge pump circuit that the helm switch powers (when it has been turned ON).

There is no conflict when wired in this fashion!
The helm switch will simply "over-ride" the open float switch.

Now when you leave the boat in the water and un-attended, your bilge pump float switch will be ready to close the circuit when/if bilge water is present!




.


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Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 01 May 2016 23:05 #23

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2850Bounty wrote:

Waterdowg wrote: This is how I wired it,



The Attwood float switch schematic is incorrect.... or at minimum, is not of the best design!

a few pointers when installing a Bilge Pump float switch:

DO NOT use a Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump switch! :evil: I will explain if need be!

As long as you DO NOT have a Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump helm switch, leave the On/Off helm switch alone.

Make sure that the float switch is mounted at a higher elevation than the pump's lowest draw-down ability! (this is very important!)

Bring the float switch power from an "Un-Interrupted" power source..... I.E., a direct connection to either #1 or #2 terminal of your MBSS.
In other words.... no direct battery connection!

The float switch (when called upon) will now power the exact same bilge pump circuit that the helm switch powers (when it has been turned ON).

There is no conflict when wired in this fashion!
The helm switch will simply "over-ride" the open float switch.

Now when you leave the boat in the water and un-attended, your bilge pump float switch will be ready to close the circuit when/if bilge water is present!

[/color]


When you say "the helm switch will simply override the OPEN float switch, what happens if the helm switch is in the ON position and the float switch turns ON (due to water in the bilge)? I'm having a problem understanding 12 volts going to the pump from the helm switch and 12 volts also going to the pump from the float without frying the pump. I'm sorry for sounding so dumb, but I just can't see the light on right now.

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Last Edit: by oakplank.

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 02 May 2016 04:02 #24

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I thought that if the power source is 12v, regardless of how many connections, that is the most that will go to that pump...?

Regardless, I also have a question...

I have just bought an auto float switch that I want to install. I have an "on/off" helm switch. I am now in the habit of turning off my red battery key when I exit the boat, so that is why I want a completely automatic bilge pump setup. How does the float and pump get its power if the battery key is turned off and removed without wiring it directly to the battery...?

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Hell, Michigan (yes we really live in a city named "Hell" in Michigan)
2012 BR 185 - 3.0 TKS
1999 Chaparral 233 Sunesta Ltd., 5.0 Volvo
1985 Harris Flotebote Classic 240
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR
1993 Yamaha Waverunner III
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III GP
1995 Yamaha Waverunner III VXR PRO

Automatic Bilge, 2015 185 02 May 2016 08:33 #25

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RobMick wrote: I thought that if the power source is 12v, regardless of how many connections, that is the most that will go to that pump...?

Regardless, I also have a question...

I have just bought an auto float switch that I want to install. I have an "on/off" helm switch. I am now in the habit of turning off my red battery key when I exit the boat, so that is why I want a completely automatic bilge pump setup. How does the float and pump get its power if the battery key is turned off and removed without wiring it directly to the battery...?


You need to connect the float switch directly to the battery and the existing bilge pump.
Leave all other wiring in tact and it will still work from the switch but it will also work when the battery key is off.

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