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TOPIC: Winterizing Conundrum

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 01:26 #1

  • LazyCrusr
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Hi :)
So now that my little boat is all clean w/ fresh oils and AF in all of the right places (fingers crossed) I have arrived at a most vexing issue ;)
The drive is up so I can drive it to get it wrapped.
But I'm told that it is not good to leave it that way all winter or I harm the bellows.
So, once wrapped, how the heck can I possibly put the drive DOWN and remove the battery?

Am I missing something?? :silly:

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Boating is the Life !!
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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
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Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 01:28 #2

  • desuch
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they will leave an entry way into the boat if you ask them i have seen this done,and yes do not leave the drive unit up
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1988 flybridge trophy bayliner 2556 ,mercury 5.7 lit. OMC cobra out drive 76 hrs. on new package,
located in ketchikan ak,name DOMINION
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 01:41 #3

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desuch wrote: they will leave an entry way into the boat if you ask them i have seen this done,and yes do not leave the drive unit up


Oh, even a little bowrider?
I did not know that !

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Boating is the Life !!
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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
Unnamed!
Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 01:57 #4

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or, if you know there is no water left setting in it, you could tarp (or wrap?) the outdrive so it stays dry, then it doesnt matter if its up or down

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1989 Bayliner 2556, 5.7 OMC Cobra

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 02:16 #5

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If you need to trailer it to be shrink wrapped and then trailer it back home or to the storage area, I'd consider just leaving it where it needs to be and tarp it instead of shrink wrapping it. Drive down.
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 02:33 #6

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I don't know if it because we live in a lake community or lake area, but ALL the shrink wrap providers come right to your boat and wrap it doesn't matter if it is at home, garage or marina. Just cannot be in the water. I don't wrap mine, I use our mooring canvas that came with the boat as well as a "semi" customer cover from Menards I bought for about $100.00. I do store the boat indoors however. I also spread dryer sheets throughout the boat as they "allegedly" keep the kritters out, and as a benefit they keep the boat and carpet smelling fresh, it mildewy in the spring. I put them everywhere, under the seats in storage areas, bilge, gunwhales, glove box, etc. I also put a "Damp Rid" moisture catching container under both both bow seats, in the ski locker, the bilge as well as in the cabin. Captures any moisture that may be present. Last couple years, we have been the carpets cleaned in the house about the time I am detailing the boats for winter storage. I have the carpet cleaning guys clean the bowrider carpet as well as the pontoon carpet when they do the house. It ends costing about $80 more to add both boats. They use the steam extractor truck mounted system, it's amazing how much dirt comes out of the boats' carpet. It dries usually in about a day or so...I'll also have them add Scotchguard to the carpet as another layer of protection against stains from feet or spills...
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 11:07 #7

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No such luk here - shrink wrapper is 30+ miles away

Wondering if it is easy to disconnect the cylinders that lift the drive and just ease it down by hand?
I'm all about that if it is doable?

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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
Unnamed!
Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 11:31 #8

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Sarah, yes you can remove the retainer on the pin that holds the aft of the cylinders to the drive then slide it out. This will allow the drive to drop.

I have seen some boats that get wrapped cover the drive to prevent water from collecting in the exhaust hub to prevent cracking from frozen water but the bellows are still flexed up as is your concern. While its best to store the boat with the bellows in a relaxed position I have see may folks not do so and get years of service. Being that the exhaust bellows gets stretched the most it is the first to fail.
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 15:50 #9

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Nauti Mike wrote: Sarah, yes you can remove the retainer on the pin that holds the aft of the cylinders to the drive then slide it out. This will allow the drive to drop.

I have seen some boats that get wrapped cover the drive to prevent water from collecting in the exhaust hub to prevent cracking from frozen water but the bellows are still flexed up as is your concern. While its best to store the boat with the bellows in a relaxed position I have see may folks not do so and get years of service. Being that the exhaust bellows gets stretched the most it is the first to fail.


correct.... by leaving the drive up thruout the winter it doesnt make the bellows any more vulnerable to failure than when the drive sets in the up position when on the trailer any other time of the year.... and, the drive doesnt have to be lifted to its maximum travel and still allow for plenty of clearance when on the trailer.
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 18:37 #10

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Where are you storing the boat ?

For a 10 dollar gasket you can remove the drive, leave the Rams in.

Store the drive in your basement. Or other secure location.
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Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 21:02 #11

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AAARRRGGHHHH

too many choices !!!
But Thanks ALL - I gotta think on this!

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Boating is the Life !!
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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
Unnamed!
Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 21:45 #12

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LazyCrusr wrote: AAARRRGGHHHH

too many choices !!!
But Thanks ALL - I gotta think on this!


Keep it simple and do what feels right to you.

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1997 Maxum 2400 SCR 5.7LX Bravo II

Mike

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 22:57 #13

  • 88fourwinns
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1) as long as the battery is charged before closing up the boat there is no reason at all to remove it. I have 2 heavy gp 27s on my boat and all I do is charge them and then if the weather is mild during the winter, I may open up the cover and give them another mid winter charge up.
2) have them make a zipper door in the shrink so you can get in. That way if the boat has to be moved, you can raise the drive.
3) keeping the drive down, prolongs the life of the driveshaft bellows because it is in a relaxed state. I have had the OMC Cobra/Volvo SX style bellows last more than 10 years by keeping it down. Usually I take the drive off for the winter and leave it in the garage. But that is owner preference, you certainly can leave it on all winter
4) The other reason why its good to leave it down, is that water will not collect in the exhaust housing and potentially freeze and may crack the housing.
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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
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Long Island Sound Region

Winterizing Conundrum 13 Oct 2017 23:35 #14

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Nauti Mike wrote:

LazyCrusr wrote: AAARRRGGHHHH

too many choices !!!
But Thanks ALL - I gotta think on this!


Keep it simple and do what feels right to you.


Agreed !!
I think that I am going to take the cylinders/rams off and just lower the drive
(oh how I wish that I had a garage!)

thanks everyone,,,,,I'll leave you alone now :woohoo:

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Boating is the Life !!
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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
Unnamed!
Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser

Winterizing Conundrum 14 Oct 2017 00:18 #15

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Don't bother doing that, for one it is unnecessary and for another it can be tricky to get the cylinders to line up with the cross pin that goes thru the end of the drive. A drive is HEAVY and you might have to lift it up to get the rams and the cross pin all lined up. Make the shrink wrap guy put in a door leave the battery in the boat...

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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Long Island Sound Region

Winterizing Conundrum 14 Oct 2017 01:47 #16

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88fourwinns wrote: Don't bother doing that, for one it is unnecessary and for another it can be tricky to get the cylinders to line up with the cross pin that goes thru the end of the drive. A drive is HEAVY and you might have to lift it up to get the rams and the cross pin all lined up. Make the shrink wrap guy put in a door leave the battery in the boat...


Really...... Interesting.

But I'm drinking tonite and so, of course, I'm in a Brilliant state of mind ;)
Take out new expensive battery and put older battery in boat
Run wires from the drive lift mechanism, thru the drain plug,,,,yeah, getting the picture yet?
Run the wires thru the drain to a switch out side the boat and lower that drive when I get the boat home !!!

Ya see, wine makes you smarter! ;) :silly:

If I knew the wiring, I just might try this !!

G;nite guys,,,,Know that I appreciate all of your advice ;)

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Boating is the Life !!
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'97 Bayliner Empress Ciera 2859
Unnamed!
Bravo II Drive ~ 7.4 375HP Mercruiser
Last Edit: by LazyCrusr.

Winterizing Conundrum 14 Oct 2017 01:58 #17

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Keep it simple...leave good batt in boat and have zipper door put in shrink wrap. I have visions of your wiring idea grounding out on the engine and causing trouble. The trim circuit draws lots of amps = heat if it grounds out anywhere....
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88 Four Winns 200 Horizon 4.3 OMC
98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0/Selectrac
07 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 Hemi/Quadradrive II

Long Island Sound Region

Winterizing Conundrum 14 Oct 2017 03:17 #18

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I take the battery out of my Boston Whaler for the winter and use a Lithium battery jump starter/power pack if I need to tilt the motor up or down. I temporarily connect it to the battery terminals on the boat using the clamps, tilt the motor, and disconnect it.


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Winterizing Conundrum 14 Oct 2017 18:19 #19

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outdrive is to heavy for a person to remove without some help ,I have a shop remove mine only if needed for a repair

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1988 flybridge trophy bayliner 2556 ,mercury 5.7 lit. OMC cobra out drive 76 hrs. on new package,
located in ketchikan ak,name DOMINION
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